I used a carpenters square to ensure the legs were at a right angle with the frame. I then attached the legs to one of the frames again using pocket screws and wood glue. I used plenty of wood glue as well as counter sunk 1 ½” deck screws every couple inches. Next I assembled the legs that I previously cut to length. When adding the middle braces be mindful of where your drain and return plumbing need to go or you will end up having to move them later on (like I did). Using pocket holes almost makes it like putting together legos. I cannot say enough about how much time and effort using the Kreg jig for a project like this will save you. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig and 2 ½” course thread Kreg screws to assemble the entire frame. I found it easier than using a carpenter’s square. Building the frames by clamping two of the boards to the corner edge of a table saw or other right angle surface helps to keep them square. Next I assembled the top and bottom frames. I also ripped four 2×4’s to 1 ½” wide to be used as half of the “L” shaped legs making the legs exactly 3″x3”. Ripping ¼” off each side of the 2×4’s gives a nice square 3″x1 ½” board. This wasn’t necessary but I find them easier to work with when they are square instead of having the rounded corners. I then ripped all 2×4’s down to exactly 3″ wide on the table saw. Cutting all the boards prior to assembly allowed me to ensure they were all the exact same length to help ensure the frame would be square. I started this build by cutting all the framing 2×4’s to size using a Miter saw. Getting the frame as square as possible is crucial for stability it also makes the rest of the build go much smoother when it comes to fitting everything, and I mean EVERYTHING. The frame should be the simplest part of the entire cabinet build, yet it never ends up being that way for me. Decent quality paint brush for moulding.1 ½” deck screws (For fastening plywood).1 ¼” fine threaded kreg screws (For 1x hardwood).2 ½” course threaded kreg screws (For 2×4’s).Jigsaw (for cutting out hole for plumbing).

Rust-oleum Appliance Epoxy (gloss white).Benjamin Moore Advanced paint (natural ivory).Ideally marine grade if money is not an issue)

¾” plywood (oak used here but most ¾” ply will do.

If any of this sounds like it interests you then follow along with me as I build a cabinet! I decided to document my most recent build in as much detail as possible to hopefully encourage those who have not built one to give it a shot themselves, as well as to spur new ideas for those who have.

I have found that with the use of a few simple techniques, building a strong, good looking cabinet is not all that hard. I am definitely no carpenter, but have built a few decent cabinets through my time in this hobby. Just the thought of turning a pile of wood into something that looks halfway decent, while at the same time withstanding hundreds or thousands of pounds of weight pushing down on it may be enough to drive you insane. Building an aquarium cabinet may seem like a daunting task if you have never done so before.

Diy aquarium stand